I also hadn’t expected there to be so much dark material on the top of the glacier – in this sunshine and warmth the small pieces of shale-type rock trap the heat to add more heat and stress to the glacier.
Arctic wilderness
One of the most brilliant experiences has been trekking way out into the arctic wilderness.
It’s only the beginning…
Around six hours after setting out, walking across the tundra, scrambling over and up rocky inclines, crossing icy not-yet-frozen rivers, watching the last flocks of geese flying south for the winter, spotting snow buntings who were leaving their flight south a little late, climbing up steep mountain passes, lazing while enjoying hot drinks and chocolate in the sunshine, definitely not looking down in some places, absolutely looking down in others while looking for fossils, juggling the beauty of the open spaces with knowing it could be polar bear territory, trying to balance the warmth of sun and effort with the freezing temperatures when in the shadows, navigating which icy patches really were frozen and which ones were luring the uninformed into icy water, noticing the delicacy of the arctic flowers and lichens, being surprised at the fragility of some of the rocks, enjoying the challenge of up, up and further upwards towards a ridge that never seemed to get closer, stepping from one rock to another, trusting foot placements while also trying to defy gravity, trying to keep up with sure-footed dogs and a nimble guide, and revelling – finally – in the down hill that opened into this amazing valley. And reaching the cabin that would be home for two nights – but not without one more suspenseful river crossing. Many thanks to Emma the wonder guide, and Prikken and Eura the wonder dogs.
Out in the Arctic wilderness
There's a bear in there...
Another day out on the water, being totally mesmerised by the landscape and the ever shifting light and colour.
Just the day you could really use a stronger zoom lens…
But today there was something even more thrilling than these massive landscapes. Watching a polar bear chasing reindeer.
Svalbard reindeer are generally very chill and not usually taken to doing their best Catherine Freeman impersonations... unless close behind them is a massive isbjørn [ice bear]. It seems that polar bears are investigating new food sources in the non-winter months as temperatures rise and food becomes more scarce – and reindeer are now on the alert. The chase happened across the lower ground just above the shoreline.
There was no luck for the polar bear this day. After a short burst of activity she decided to cut her losses and rest in the sun once the race was obviously lost.
I really, really want a stronger zoom lens…
Confusing autumn colours
The arctic is still surprising with its vibrant colours – but they are changing, and rapidly so is the light. The days are noticeably shorter and the light now comes in from a much lower angle.
No longer do you wake up to bright skies, absolutely sure that it is time to get up and bounce into the day – only to discover it is 4am...
Cloud watching
Sometimes the clouds roll in in a long line down the length of valley, but not at the top of the mountain – they are incredible. Coal mining structures disappear and appear from the clouds.
Looooong clouds
It is actually quite warm...
I am starting to rethink the amount of clothes I have brought with me. True, there have been some very chilly breezes, especially when out on the water and when the wind howls down off the glacier, but on sunny days like this one it is warm. Not just ‘warm for the arctic’ but actually warm. August was the hottest month on record for Longyearbyen with a couple of days reaching 20°. By some measures of what defines the arctic [a monthly average temperature below +10°C] Longyearbyen was above that benchmark with an average of 11°.
What's the time Mr. Ulv...?
Even though ‘midnight sun’ has ended and the sun does dip below the horizon, since I have arrived the night doesn’t get at all dark. 10pm, 2am, 4am… they all look surprisingly similar when I look out the window [this is the view from my room].
Sometimes it is quite hard to tell what the time is…
Obtrusive honesty
So, what are those pipes that are everywhere in Longyearbyen...?
The simple answer is utilities – water and sewer pipes that also have, I am guessing this next bit, electrical and comms wires piggy-backing along.
Because of the permafrost here [which is getting a little less permanent and also less frosty] all of the pipes are above ground, and quite often on wooden platforms.
I have grown to really like them, the way they insist on having their space in the landscape – importantly, honestly and obtrusively.
Absolute beach weather
Maybe I should have done a lot more research on the weather in Longyearbyen in September because I had not expected a perfect beach day with barely a ripple on the water.
It looks perfect for paddleboarding
Another glacier visit
This is the amazing Tunabreen.
Tunabreen with its lovely blue ice against the milky chocolate coloured water.
To get here I caught the fast hybrid speedboat Kvitbjørn. One of the big differences between the speedboat and bigger boats was the rolling motion so disliked by seedy-feeling non-sailors was replaced by a regular thump as we hit the waves at pace. This for some reason seems more acceptable. The increase in speed also means increase in wind chill, and today was already several notches colder than it had been.
As we stealthily glided toward the glacier with the quiet electric motors running, there was a strange sound coming from the water. Glacier ice is packed with tiny air bubbles trapped inside, so as the floating ice is exposed to sea water and melts, the air in the bubbles is released – popping in a melodic chorus.
Not so melodic is the thunder rumble and crash of massive chunks of glacial ice calving and hitting the water, sending bits flying and sending out sizable waves.
The glacier calving, with massive slabs of ice crashing into the water.
New snow and no heating
Today was the first crispy new snow since arriving. While it stayed higher in the mountains, it did add a coolness to the air. It also coincided with the third day of works on the heating system in Nybyen – and by works, I mean the switching off of the heating system so repairs/upgrades could be made. Any residual heat in the pipes had long gone. No probs, it is all part of adventures in the arctic. And the fine people of Svalbardenergi made speedy repairs so the warmth returned by mid afternoon to help thaw frosty fingers and toes.
When you discover you are not built for the sea – but rolling with the waves is definitely worth it...
The weather wasn’t the best for an adventure out on the fjord to see one of Svalbard’s majestic glaciers. The clouds rolled in and the wind picked up. The swell of the waves was definitely noticeable – especially for someone who has no experience as a seafarer.
The clouds were so low as to only show horizontal slivers of land above the water. And then they lowered again to sit on top of the sea, leaving water and cloud as the only visual distinctions.
As the glacier neared, the clouds were still a thick mist, allowing only tantalising vague shadows to shimmer through the white, before rising slowly like a stage curtain to reveal the most stunning ice wall, the colours utterly indescribable.
Waiting for winter
At the edge of Longyearbyen town there are polar bear warning signs, alerting you to the fact that, beyond this point, you need to carry polar bear protection. This means a flare gun to frighten the bear away, and a rifle for worst-case scenarios – well, definitely worst-case for the bear.
Snow mobiles in the background are randomly parked on forklift palettes, keeping them off the rocky ground, waiting for the return of winter snows.
Well, that wasn't quite what I expected...
The arctic landscape of Svalbard – early September and there is no snow...
In the lead up to arriving in Svalbard, in the arctic, there was a great attempt to keep expectations to a minimum. Why travel somewhere if you ‘know’ what it is already like…? But of course, even with the best intentions, there are some assumptions and expectations…
What I wasn’t expecting was the arctic landscape to be awash with orange and green…
Not quite Svalbard – the Faroe Islands
The road to the arctic has gone via the spectacular sub-arctic islands of the Faroes. The brilliant landscapes were so inspiring for creating artworks, and may give an idea of what to expect of the lands further north – but who knows quite what we will discover...
Incoming snowstorm, Gásadalur ©
So how did this Arctic adventure start...?
If you absolutely hate being cold, but you absolutely love freezing landscapes, which location would you choose to apply for an artist’s residency? Warm sandy beach, or a majestic arctic landscape that is 9/10s of the way to the North Pole.
There’s no question really.
Discovering the artist residency with the Spitsbergen Artists Center in Svalbard was the perfect combination of location and opportunity. [Thank you Elizabeth for accepting the submission.]
The 10 week residency offers the amazing opportunity to take time, absorb, reflect and watch the changing light. To illustrate, sketch, photograph and document the arctic from a personal perspective. It will be a combination of art and research. Exploring the landscape and meeting scientists, artists, writers, researchers and the people of Svalbard.
The residency allows the space to meet and learn how the people of Svalbard live and feel about their home and what is happening there with climate change – and what they think about the quirk of being outnumbered by polar bears…
Everything is crossed, although there is a slight suspicion the sighting of an isbjørn will come down to a lot of luck. [Please help in the quest of spotting a polar bear, from a distance of course, by employing the scientifically proven technique of crossing your fingers for us.]
There is great anticipation of being immersed in this stunning location. Experiencing the details, sights, smells and sounds, visiting vast landscapes, and discovering the character and people of Svalbard. To see, explore and learn, then share these experiences.
The countdown has begun and we are weeks away from landing. Is anyone sure on the correct spelling of ‘skwwwweeeeeeeeee!!!’?
Nybyen and glaciers, Svalbard. Photo: iStock